Karuizawa - respite to your busy city life and a nature-lovers delight
I am absolutely an outdoorsy person. I love nature – the wind on my face, the singsong of the birds, the colours and the sounds.
Our free time, while living in Zürich, was mostly spent in the Swiss Alps. Now, in Tokyo we spend most of our time in a booming metropolis. It seems to naturally follow that visiting the so-called Japanese Alps was a must!
In fact, over the summer holiday, I took stock of where I was after fifteen months living here, what I had done, saw, experienced. And then I made a plan and a promise of what I wanted to do with the next years.
One of the first and deepest wishes I have is to see more of Asia - namely Japan.
A few years ago, in Switzerland, our local supermarket was having a promotion on outdoor gear, tents, pocket knives and such. So we collected the little stamps and put them in the books, waiting until we had enough to buy our first tent.
When the day came that the booklet was full, up went the tent in the back garden, along with four million flashlights, sleeping bags (also from the sale) pillows, cuddly toys and our best intentions. It was only when our not-so-small family of five piled-in that first Saturday night that we realised we had bought a two-person tent.
Eager to make it work (and show the children that we were not too high maintenance to be a little bit uncomfortable), we tucked in for the night.
Johan was the first to creep from the tent in the middle of the night to the house and Lulu soon followed. But, the brown-eye team lasted the night, until the early morning Swiss summer sunrise at about 4:30 am! We were definitely cramped and ready to stretch out... and determined to save up for the larger tent.
Once we had the larger tent, there were no excuses.
We threw it in the back of car while packing for our summer holiday and off we went to Mallorca, tent and all. As soon as we arrived at our rented home for those three weeks the new, larger tent when up, fully "furnished" with all the trimmings. Pillows, snacks and even head lamps this time.
And we never slept in that tent once….
Flash forward a couple years, to our new life in Japan. Here we are, half of the family determined to make use of our camping kit (it wasn’t for nothing that we dragged it across the world!) and the other half vehemently trying to avoid it (why on Earth would we do that?). I even have camping at the foot of Fuji on my Tokyo Bucket List!
So, one and a half years after our arrival, we did what all functioning, fair families do, we devised a compromise.
We went glamping.
Armed with hope and an affection for the mountains, we began the journey of employing our new world.
Our first time in Karuizawa was certainly focused on the accommodations, but here is the 24-hour itinerary I would suggest to anyone venturing to this beautiful area of Japan.
The Ginza Dory is the heart and soul of Kyu-Karuizawa , or the old part of town.
Johan and Friso checking out the local wares
Karuizawa offers respite to the Tokyo heat...but still warm!
The French Bakery was made famous by patron John Lennon
We could have poked along the Ginza Dory all day long, finding little treasures and gifts.
The Ginza Dory is especially well-known for jams, produced locally.
Karuizawa is a wonderful respite to the summer heat and a nature-lovers delight.
Karuizawa is a destination to get away from it all. You can rent a bike, hike, have a round of golf, play tennis, shop your heart out or simply relax and let nature sooth your soul.
It is considered a posh destination and many politicians and Tokyo-elite have summer homes here. Despite the stereotype, we found that time passes a little slower here and you seem to feel holiday-esque the minute you arrive.
The wooded areas around the little town make for some seriously gorgeous walking and biking (when you have finished all of your shopping, of course!) Made (even more) famous by John Lennon and Yoko Ono, who use to holiday with their family each year at the Mampei Hotel, the forest is deep and magical.
The old part of town is a wonderful place to find local delicacies and mosey along the pedestrianized old street, poking your nose in and out of the shops.
At the end of the pedestrianised shopping street, the forest begins. On our next trip to Karuizawa we will certainly explore the wooded area more!
Although the temperatures definitely boasted summer, the produce said Autumn.
Karuizawa Ginza
We left Tokyo by car around 9:30 in the morning and drove directly to Kyu Karuizawa (the old part of town), parked the car in one of the many lots and set out on the Ginza Dori straight away.
You can easily and happily spend an hour or two just mooching around, which is exactly what we did. For how local this place is (seriously, take home some homemade jam or other yummy locally produced products), you can even find food from all over the world, if that is what you are looking for.
Of course we checked out the French Bakery, made popular by John Lennon. Any proper Beetles fan will pop in and grab a loaf and have a look at the pictures adorning the walls.
Following our search for lunch and souvenirs, we walked to the end of the pedestrianized street, where the trees became thicker and the air a bit cooler. We entered into the more “foresty” area of town and pledged to come back in the autumn, rent bikes and see what is down there!
I still haven't mastered the slow exposure method!!
I am laughing because poor Michelle is trying to grab our photo - with no other people in the frame and with us all looking at the camera - while heavily pregnant! It was a hilariously impossible task!
Our whole team - in a rare moment when we had all kids and adults in one spot!
My two monkeys - always together and always up to something.
Shiraito Waterfall
We hopped back into the car and drove twenty-five minutes to the waterfall. Ever since visiting Niagara Falls as a little girl, I have been in awe of all things water. Shiraito did not disappoint. Like most things Japanese, it is quiet and clean… and crowded. But, there are no words for how lovely it is.
The short walk from the car to the falls is about 10 minutes and once you are there, the only thing to do is to admire the falls. But, oddly, we spent quite a space of time there, doing just that!
And, don’t worry, even with all of the admirers surrounding the falls, you will eventually get your turn at the water’s edge and a kind stranger will snap your picture for you!
Near the parking for the waterfalls, you can taste another local delicacy. They couldn't be fresher - they are swimming in a tank below until they are grilled.
A serene moment at the falls.
As much as the children loved the waterfall, it was a miracle that no one fell in the water. It was far too tempting to splash and push and hop around on the rocks.
Stone Church
After the impressive experience at the Falls, we jumped back in the car and headed to the Stone Church over a crazy-windy, skinny little road that made me feel like I was back in Switzerland, driving in the Alps. It takes about thirty minutes and is full of adventure.
The Stone Church, built by American architect Kendrick Kellogg, is an unusual site in the middle of the forest and is both one of the most popular tourist attractions and venues for weddings. It is one of those buildings that intrigue you and you immediately want to see more.
My advice? Check the opening hours before you go. We arrived at five o'clock in the afternoon and the doors were closed until seven o'clock the next morning (and only for one hour).
Kogan Church
Of course we were a bit bummed to miss the Stone Church, but we half-heartedly committed to rising early the next day to see it (we didn’t). But, the Kogan Church is a three-minute walk from the Stone Church, so off we went.
I have to mention that both churches are located on the grounds of the HOSHINOYA Hotel. If you have the chance to splurge a little (a lot), and you are not glamping, I fully recommend staying in one of their little cabins, dotted over the property and lit by little, sparking lanterns in the evenings. Just gorgeous!
The resort is also a popular wedding venue and there was a ceremony happening at the Kogan church. So, although we could only admire the church from afar, we were able to see the magic of a Karuizawa wedding. The fairy lights, the lanterns, the birds singing all make for a truly romantic evening.
We paused for a drink on the terrace of French Restaurant No One's Recipe to end the very satisfying day of site seeing.
A favourite of ours, Sawamura Bakery. Yummmmmmm.
We look a little worn and tired...sleeping in a tent with three children is to blame!
Breakfast time at Harunire Terrace.
The shops here offer many classes and demonstrations on crafting and artistry.
If we would have had more time, the children would have loved to make their own soaps!
The little, waxy decorations were so sweet - but Cleo kept touching them and making the shop keeper anxious.
Harunire Terrace
The next morning we set out rather early, in effort to see a few sites and leave early to avoid the inevitable Tokyo traffic.
Our first stop was Harunire Terrace for breakfast. It really was a pity that we were in a rush. The Terrace, with its wooden buildings and forest-y surroundings is serene and slow. I could have easily kept my seat by the ravine and sipped at another coffee or two.
It is a place to pause from the site seeing and do a little shopping, or simply sit for a drink.
A walk around the Kumobaike Pond takes about 20 minutes
A popular wedding ceremony destination, we saw two marriages in 24 hours!
Kumobaike Pond
A popular destination for newly married brides and grooms, the pond is a pretty place on the Earth. You are surrounded by nature and the children enjoyed the short walk around the perimeter. I can imagine that, in the autumn, when the leaves are changing into bright orange, red and brown colours it is a very spectacular site.
Johan on the grill, kids at the table, everything fine.
We used the "Sky View" app to show the children the stars and the planets in the night sky.
Friso brought his Swiss army knife and impressed us all by making pointy sticks to roast the marshmallows with.
Our visit was short and sweet, but we absolutely plan to return. Upon our return, we have a short list of must-dos:
Take the train, instead of driving. It is just over and hour’s journey with the Shinkansen (bullet train).
Stay in a holiday rental property, situated in the forests of Karuizawa
Rent bicycles to explore the woods and the treasures they hold
Actually find the Usui Pass this time (instead of driving back and forth on that crazy-spinny road and not finding the pass!)
As a bonus to our weekend in the Alps, I also learned that the Broeks can camp! It might not be “real” camping, but we can glamp. Any time, any place. In fact, watch out family, I am already searching for glamping opportunities for Christmas!