How we learned to live as a guest in our old neck of the woods
It was a very short decision-making process to leave Japan for the summer holidays this year.
With steamy temperatures and sticky days, we didn’t think twice. However, we were in for a surprise as to how much our Swiss home would feel like a holiday to us all over the summer.
Johan grew up going to the Swiss mountainside with his family and brought me along when we first move to Europe in 2002. If you know me, you know I am not much of an avid skier, but I did find something quite relaxing and mystical about the colours, the textures and the greatness of the peaks. As a self-proclaimed beach girl, I would later find out just how much I loved the relaxation and the silence of the mountain life.
Shortly after moving to Zurich, Johan and I began our love affair with the Swiss Alps and bought a holiday home in Klosters.
We have had that little apartment for almost eleven years now. And we have spent each and every winter weekend there – from the time the ski lifts open until well past Easter some years. We have spent Christmases, New Years Eves, Winter Breaks and every other free day in between in Klosters.
I remember buying the pillows and dishes to furnish it whilst heavily pregnant with Lulu and Friso, begging my mother to fly over and help us organise when I was put on bed rest and sitting on the couch, watching the winter world go by, those first months in the flat….so long ago.
Since then, we have welcomed three babies, hosted many parties and created loads of memories in that place.
The decision not to stay in Tokyo for the long summer break probably had more to do with escaping the heat than returning to our home. I think that after one and a half years away, we realise that “home” can be anywhere and that the five us of don’t need too much to have fun. So flying back to Switzerland was an easy, if not a less than creative choice.
Until this year, our place in Klosters has been more an extension of our home in Zurich. It was not a place to “escape” or to take a holiday. It was where we went. Period.
Holidays and holiday destinations were far more exotic and included many more bells and whistles.
Yet, this summer, coming from Japan, Klosters seemed totally new and wonderful. It was holiday!
When you have the chance to see your old home thru the eyes of a tourist, here is what happens.
YOU DON’T MISS A BEAT
You know how “they” say Don’t take the little things in life for granted? Well, that is exactly how I felt about spending our holiday time in Klosters.
I remember when I met Johan in New York. I had already lived there for many years and did not to expect that to change any time soon. I was in no hurry to see the sites because, for certain, I was never leaving.
And then I met Johan. He wanted to see the parks and the monuments and the museums and the musicals on Broadway. I thought it was amusing, but not necessary. I had time.
There are many, many classic examples of taking things for granted in our lives. But, aren’t holidays the time to see and do everything? Or to relax and sit back with your feet up in a gorgeous location, feeling lucky and serene? Or to play hard and enjoy each moment?
This summer in Klosters, we “did it all”. That windsurfing class, let’s look into it. Tennis lessons, why not? Out for dinner tonight? Yep. Things I would have possibly put off before – we can do that next week – seemed super interesting this time and took on more of an urgency.
Without thinking about it, and on some level, I think we were all aware just how special that time was. We spent each and every moment with the breeze on our faces in the spirit and the freedom of holiday.
We knew it would end and we would all pile back in to the city, with thirteen million others.
YOUR OLD ROUTINE CHANGES
One thing we love to do on holiday is to establish a bit of a routine. For us, it isn’t creating a list of “must-dos” but, rather, a way to recount the days and the experiences when the summer tan and the memories fade.
This summer we created a bit of a habit.
I can look back and say that mornings were (almost) always spent sporting. We had adventure camp and mountain bike rides and loads of hikes. We very rarely (and sadly, from my son’s point of view) made pancakes and big, American breakfasts.
We grabbed a Weggli(a soft bun) or a Gipfeli (a croissant) from the local baker, the kids washed it down with an Ovomaltine (chocolate milk) and off we went. It was bonding and healthy, but also something we can look back on and remember doing together.
We always had lunch in town with Oma and Opa or together in our garden. If I am honest, we were sometimes too busy to stop for lunch and would often grab a snack and keep moving. But, the days I remember most fondly is that family time with Johan’s parents, when we would pause for a minute and chill out on a terrace for lunch. It would become the time that we took a beat and connected with family.
Our evenings were long, sometimes boozy, BBQ sessions with family and friends and the occasional passer-by in our garden.
I remember one particular night I was re-creating our typical Klosters Easter menu for the children, as we’d been in Japan this past year. However odd it may seem, each Easter I slow cook and then BBQ loads of spare ribs, bake some good ‘ole Mac & Cheese and prepare salads galore. Easter, like most holidays, typically becomes over-crowded around our three-meter-long dining table, as we love hosting and sharing lunch.
It was really quite funny. Our quiet “Easter-in-July” dinner grew and grew. One person joined, another, and another and another until it was standing room only and a real spontaneous summer celebration.
I am sure that not every day looked just like this, but it is how I will probably remember it when I look back.
When we spent days or weeks in the mountains before, it was just time passing with few deliberate markers. We had fun, of course. And we did loads of (hopefully?) interesting and memorable things that made us happy.
When we added a little bit of habit, mixed with a dash of spontaneity, it became a summer to remember.
YOU MAKE TIME FOR YOU
One of the very obvious downsides to a holiday at home is that you still have all of the “homey” things to do. You have to get groceries, organise the laundry, etc. That isn’t fun and it isn’t holiday.
But, I found that combining these ugly tasks with something that I like doing made it feel ok. For example, the day after arriving in Klosters, the children and I kitted up in our bathing suits and hit the outdoors. We got out the hoses, had a massive water fight and cleaned the dirty, dusty terrace in the mean time.
The windows might have gotten even dirtier from all of the splashing and less-than-professional cleaning, but we had fun and a chore was accomplished.
And, after that was finished, I poured a glass of white and sat with a book in a sun lounger, smug with myself.
We found that we were pretty comfortable as “guests” in our old neck of the woods.
I am sure that we will debate again next year about how and where to spend the children’s unusually long summer holiday. I am sure we will go thru the whole process again. But, I am also sure that going somewhere familiar is wonderful.
And we might just end up back home!
Klosters is a small little village, pretty modest and very relaxed. Here are the things we love about it, other than the snow:
EAT
Summer in Klosters is a wonderful chance to hike to restaurant or sit alfresco in the village. There are many, many places to try but here are our favourites:
Still one of our favourite summer treats is to walk up to the Alpenrösli and indulge in a yummy lunch. Try one of the daily specials, usually featuring some local options. The views over the village are wonderful and time passes quickly with their friendly and smiley hospitality.
We have been hanging out on the Chesa’s terrace forever. It is our “go-to” place for coffee time, lunch with friends or a nice dinner with the family. I almost always have the Chesa Salad – and why is it that the same ingredients never taste the same when I put them together at home? Perhaps because of the history you feel when you enter the Chesa…slipping back into the time of Hollywood Stars and wooden skis.
This little gem used to be the place where you grab a Bratwurst halfway thru your hike. How it has transformed! Still the destination of bikers and hikers, it has a decidedly more polished vibe than it used to with a couple of lounge areas and a little bar area. We love the Gersten soup, washed down with a Monsteiner Bier. Rock up, share a table on the terrace and enjoy the fresh mountain air – along with the accomplishment of walking all that way (translation – have dessert!).
If you love a great cappuccino with soy milk (or any other milk, for that matter) swing by and order one. After the convenience of Tokyo, I was missing the same grab and go concept in Klosters until they opened. Freshly made sandwiches, cakes and soups, the café is a wonderfully comfortable place to kick back and savour some “me time”.
When the children fancy a pizza, I am more than game to go to Al Capone for a Quattro Formaggi and a glass of red. The new terrace area makes the most of the space and the friendly staff welcomes you wholeheartedly. And, for those evenings when you cannot be bothered to whip up dinner at home, try the take out!
Sometimes you just want a burger – and then you must go to Bärs. We love the big corner table, where you can all sit around and play cards while you wait for your meal. I love the burger, and the delicious salad that comes with it negates the calories of the French fries, surely?
When you sit on the terrace of the Vereina and the weather is sunny and mild, you actually feel transported to somewhere in Southern Europe. The food is excellent and the daily specials are always good value. We spent so many afternoon lunches here this summer that I was afraid they thought we would never leave!
Newly re-opened and an old fave of ours for dinner, we visited with Oma and Opa and the children. Now under the same culinary direction as the Alpenrösli, we were not disappointed in our meal. The menu is diverse, the food a wonderful mixture of local and more exotic and everything was prepared to a T. A bit more formal than other locations in Klosters, the Walserstube is still relaxed and charming. The staff makes you feel special from the moment you walk in and even Jos came around to greet the diners.
DO
The Tennis and Adventure camp was a daily lifesaver for me! Even though it was holiday and the children didn’t want to “be on a schedule” they were up and ready each morning for camp. Rolf introduces the children to sport and fitness through a fun routine of activities. Cleo, age 6, made friends and was very busy each afternoon keeping up with her new mates. And the teenagers who helped run the camp were a very positive influence and inspiration for Lulu and Friso, age 10. And, the best part, the children were outdoors and active and I had the mornings for ME!
Swimming
On a sunny day, the Strandbad (swimming pool) is the perfect setting for the whole family. Although the water is a bit too chilly for my liking, the children don’t seem to notice! The facilities are clean and safe, with a smaller pool for the young ones and separate swimming lanes for those who want to get a work out. Between the swimming, diving and water play areas, the volleyball court, the playground and the huge garden (where my older two wore the grass kicking a football) the day passes quite quickly. And, no worries, there is also a small café serving ice cream and other (slightly over-priced) treats. Or, pack a picnic and eat in the garden. Bring your guest card for a discounted entrance fee.
Altenatively, the Davosersee has loads to offer. The very chilled lake area is fully equipped with a casual Stube (restaurant), a beach for swimming, wind surfing, pedal boats, kite surfing, sailing and wakeboarding. Get there early on weekends and holidays to be sure to snag a parking space.
Biking
There are so many options for riding your bike in Klosters. With Cleo just getting comfortable on her wheels, we opted for the less adventurous, but good fun just the same option. Rent your bikes and helmets at Andrist, pick up a map and off you go.
Hiking
For us, hiking means the way we get to lunch, but if you want more you can certainly find it in Klosters. Grab a map, pick a trail and get stepping.
Go to the Top
The summer isn’t complete without a trip to Madrisa Land. My children love the animals in the animal park and to wander around the mythical adventure park. You can take the cable car up and sleep in a tree house, go for a hike with amazing views in good weather, experience an archery parcours and, if all that isn’t enough get the adrenaline going with a scooter ride back down. For us, lunch at the Madrisahof is all the adventure we need – sitting in the sun, surrounded by alpine beauty.
In the end, Klosters is like home to us all and we miss it dearly.
The children, especially, miss the nature and the freedom of movement that comes with mountain life. It is a wonderful summertime destination for families and those just looking for some fresh air, peace and yummy food.